The movements in the orbital field of water waves of unlimited and limited water depths are attributed to the interaction of their transverse and longitudinal vibration components. In contrast to the linear wave theory and to higher order theories too, in which the continuity condition is also not fulfilled, a reflection process is assumed concerning the description of the wave transformation due to decreasing water depth. On the one hand, reference is made to the definition of the complex reflection coefficient (CRC), according to Büsching (2012), whose characteristics represent the consideration of the phase difference Δφ between the incident and the reflected wave. On the other hand, the method of "exponentially reduced reflection" that Schulejkin (1956) used regarding the horizontal floor, which fulfills the condition of continuity, is extended to the range of floor slopes in between 0⁰ and 90⁰. Accordingly, two theoretical boundary conditions are assumed: On the one hand, the positive Clapotis, the characteristic of which is a linearly polarized vertical transverse oscillating movement in the antinode (or on a vertical wall of slope inclination α = 90ᵒ), and on the other hand the negative Clapotis, which is characterized by a linear polarized horizontal rocking motion on the bottom (α = 0ᵒ) of a shallow sea. The observable forms of formation of partially standing waves (interference phenomena) are attributed a priori to the phase differences mentioned (phase jumps Δφ ). The latter in turn depend on the inclination of the seabed near the coast. The phase shift Δφ given by the slope inclination α determines the positioning of the rotated elliptical orbital paths on inclined slopes in the surf zone. Apart from superimposed drift flow and non-linear compression effects in nature, the shape and inclination of such predictable orbital paths should be decisive for the formation of the different forms of breaking waves. The washing movement that occurs after wave breaking (wave run-up and run-down) corresponds ...


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    Title :

    Vibration Interferences in the Limited Orbital Field of Sea Waves in Theory an Physical Model: Elliptic wave theory ; the influence of the phase difference Δφ between incident and reflected linear waves on the transformation of partially stand-ing waves, in the area of changing inclination of the sea ground ; Schwingungs-Interferenzen im abgegrenzten Orbitalfeld von Meereswellen in Theorie und physikalischem Modell: Elliptische Wellentheorie ; der Einfluss der Phasendifferenz Δφ zwischen einfallenden und reflektierten linearen Wellen auf die Transformation partiell stehender Wellen im Bereich veränderlicher Seegrundneigung


    Contributors:

    Publication date :

    2019-01-01



    Type of media :

    Article (Journal)


    Type of material :

    Electronic Resource


    Language :

    English



    Classification :

    DDC:    6 / 62 / 627 / 690