By drawing a macroscopic analogy between an idealized surf zone and a hydraulic jump, an expression for the spatial change in energy flux due to breaking is developed. Analytical solutions for wave height decay due to shoaling and breaking on a flat shelf and a plane beach are presented and the results compared with laboratory data from Horikawa and Kuu (1966). The agreement is good. Setdown/setup in mean water level, bottom friction losses, and bottom profiles of arbitrary shape are introduced next and the equations transformed for numerical solution. The model is calibrated and verified with laboratory data with good results for the wave decay, but not so favorable results for setup. A test run on a prototype scale profile containing three bar and trough systems demonstrates the model's ability to describe the shoaling, breaking, and wave reformation process. Bottom friction is found to play a negligible role in wave decay in the surf zone when compared with shoaling and breaking.
Modeling Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone
Miscellaneous Paper ; CERC-84-8
1984
7491578
Report
Elektronische Ressource
Englisch
NTIS | 1998
|Wave strike in the zone between surf and reflexion
Online Contents | 1997
|Surf Zone Technology Concept Assessment
NTIS | 1998
|High frequency acoustic wave reflection on the surf zone seafloor
Tema Archiv | 1999
|Parametric Description for a Wave Energy Spectrum in the Surf Zone
HENRY – Bundesanstalt für Wasserbau (BAW) | 1991
|