The finite-depth water wave transformation mechanisms including wind generation, wave breaking, nonlinear energy transfer, bottom friction, percolation, wave-soft bottom interaction, refraction, and shoaling are discussed in this dissertation. A prediction model is developed by using the wave energy equation and these wave transformation mechanisms. The mathematical formulation for each mechanism is either derived in this dissertation or constructed based on updated theories and experiments. The comparisons between model computations and field measurements show reasonably good results. (DePo)
On the transformation mechanisms and the prediction of finite-depth water waves
Ueber den Umwandlungsmechanismus und die Vorausberechnung von Bewegungen finiter Tiefwasserwellen
1978
134 Seiten
Hochschulschrift
Englisch
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