In this thesis, a model system for simulating the wave processes from the open ocean to the shoreline is proposed. In particular, the focus is put on modelling extreme wave conditions in the Mediterranean Sea and the aim is to develop a supporting tool for decision making in the early-warning process. This aim is motivated by the high number of damages due to extreme high waves conditions which occur worldwide every year. Moreover, the increasing population density and climate change in coastal zones enhance the risk for human life and coastal activities in the next future. The model system is built by linking three existing models, properly selected for their ability of simulating physical In particular, the WAVEWATCH~III model is selected for the wave processes in deep water, the SWAN model for wave processes in intermediate/shallow water, and the XBeach model for wave processing in the nearshore where changes of seabed will affect wave propagation. The three models are nested by adopting a modular approach, in which each model works separately, and a new module is developed in order to transfer the initial and boundary conditions from the largest scale to the smallest scale of the model chain. The advantage of the modular approach is that no or only slight modifications of the source code of the existing models are needed. Moreover, the system can be easily updated by introducing improvements/extensions, or fully new versions of the single models without modification of the structure of the system. The developed model system, called NEMO system, is calibrated and validated, and applied to a real test case in the coast of Versilia (North Tuscany, Italy). ; In dieser Doktorarbeit ist ein Modellsystem zur Simulation der Wellenprozesse vom offenen Ozean bis zur Küstenlinie entwickelt worden. Insbesondere liegt der Schwerpunkt dieser Studie auf der Modellierung extremer Wellenereignisse, welche durch extreme Sturmereignisse im Mittelmeer erzeugt werden. Das Ziel ist es ein Frühwarnsystem zu entwickeln, welches bei ...


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    Titel :

    Nested modelling of wave processes from deep to shallow water: Building an operational wave model system ; Geschachtelte Modellierung von Wellenprozessen vom tiefen zum seichten Wasser: Aufbau eines operationellen Wellenmodellsystems


    Beteiligte:

    Erscheinungsdatum :

    2018-12-06



    Medientyp :

    Hochschulschrift


    Format :

    Elektronische Ressource


    Sprache :

    Englisch



    Klassifikation :

    DDC:    6 / 62 / 627 / 690